Alaska to Boston: A 16,000-mile motorcycle adventure

Perce Rock in the Gulf of Saint Lawrence is one of the world's largest natural arches in water; comprised of limestone, the arch is about 50 feet high. — Perce Rock in the Gulf of Saint Lawrence is one of the world’s largest natural arches in water; comprised of limestone, the arch is about 50 feet high

^{Matane, QC >> Gaspe/Perce >> Bathurst, NB}
^{485 miles ridden/12 hours (+ Gaspe harbor cruise)}

I nearly killed myself on several occasions today because I was transfixed by the surrounding scenery, it’s so beautiful up here along the coast. Unfortunately, there are woefully few pictures because I was too busy enjoying the roads when I wasn’t almost driving off them. The few times I pulled over and waited for motorcyclists to magically appear and drive through the frame, it almost never happened, or they’d arrive as I was packing up.

Gaspe's coastal road snakes through town, ensuring a great view for any motorcycle riders exploring the area. — Gaspe’s coastal road snakes through town, ensuring a great view for any motorcycle riders exploring the area

A homeowner in Gaspe has an unspoiled view of Perce Rock, the "horse drinking water" rock formation in nearby Perce, Quebec, Canada. — A homeowner in Gaspe has an unspoiled view of Perce Rock, the “horse drinking water” rock formation in nearby Perce, Quebec, Canada

When I rounded the Gaspe Peninsula and caught sight of the “horse drinking water”-shaped Perce Rock, I knew I’d found the perfect place for lunch. I parked in the waterfront village and walked down to the pier, where my helmet caught the attention of one of the harbor tour boat captains. We had a broken French/English conversation about my trip and experiences, and he invited me on his cruise to nearby Bonaventure Island. Talk about time well spent!

From the Gaspe Peninsula one can see Perce Rock, the "horse drinking water" rock formation in nearby Perce, Quebec, Canada. — From the Gaspe Peninsula one can see Perce Rock, the “horse drinking water” rock formation in nearby Perce, Quebec, Canada

We sailed by Perce Rock’s massive natural arch and looped around the 1.6-square-mile bird sanctuary, spotting seals in the water and the massive gannet colonies that roost in the limestone. Although the captain offered me a place to sleep that evening so I could disembark and explore the island, I passed; this break was enough, I was ready to get back on the road. And while this leg of Quebec was largely bike-free, I started seeing a lot more motorcycles once I entered New Brunswick. It was a perfect day to be out for a ride.

Bonaventure Island in the Gulf of Saint Lawrence, Canada, is home to the second largest northern gannet population in the world

Seals relax in the waters of the Gulf of Saint Lawrence, Canada, near Bonaventure Island in Quebec

[2^nd journal entry]

Oddly enough, despite eating worse than ever on this trip (lots of empty calories; a diet primarily consisting of meat and soda), I imagine I’m a few pounds lighter than when I began.

Last night on the ferry, I must’ve consumed 2,000 calories worth of poutine, never mind the sandwich that came with it. And 99% of the time, I eat like I’ve never seen food before – there’s never a wasted morsel on my plate; it always goes back clean. Despite all the layers, I guess I’m burning a lot of energy keeping warm. One of the guys I met at the North Dakota KOA campground told me that when he was working on the oil rigs, natives would eat blubber straight up.

Take out ("casse-croute") is a convenient grab-and-go option for any motorcyclist or traveler making their way through town. — Take out (“casse-croute”) is a convenient grab-and-go option for any motorcyclist or traveler making their way through town

Right now, I’d guess I’m down ~10 lbs. We’ll see when I get home. It’s tricky with alternating warm/hot/cold days and nights – you start out freezing and end up sweating like crazy when you travel with your home on your back. How do turtles manage it?